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It is hard to disagree that even today, the fur industry continues to play an important role in peoples lives and countries economies. In their article named Hats and the Fur Trade, Crean (1962) provides a historical insight into the development of the North American beaver trade and relates it to the Canadian fur industry. In order to support their analysis, the author refers to a 1765 French book by M. lAbbe Nollet, in which the writer explores the sources of raw materials, the methods of production, and the history of the French hatting industry (Crean, 1962, p. 373). The articles key argument is that the Canadian fur trade was significantly impacted by its previous development in Russia, France, and Sweden.
Overall, the author begins their essay by examining the felt hat industrys history. For example, in Central Asia, felting was adopted in the prehistoric period local nomads economys two mainstays, namely, transportation and meat, were provided by the animals, so their fur was an assured by-product (Crean, 1962). Greeks used wool for felting, as it was one of the cheapest options for protection against arrows. In Near East, felt hats were widespread: thus, Ottomans used to wear them as a national headdress. However, according to the author, precisely the Russian development of the felting art impacted Canadas fur industry most (Crean, 1962). This growth required the confluence of two key elements from the later Russian and Norse economic empires.
The first characteristic was the presence of European beavers found in vast numbers throughout an extensive area. Its range extended to Scandinavia and included all of Europe and Northern Asia. The second vital feature was the existence of a relatively small, widely traveled, class of merchants who transmitted various processes like felting (Crean, 1962, p. 375). Therefore, these and some other factors allowed Canada to adopt numerous hatting methods and techniques from Russia.
Until the technological advancement brought about by carroting, the fur of beavers was the only material that could be used to create a hat with a wide and sturdy brim. These extraordinary felting characteristics were discovered in Constantinople, where beaver fur was treated with the technique that had developed around the wool feeling business (Crean, 1962). This finding gave felting access to an entirely new world. In addition to this discovery and the significant impact of Russian felting art, the second line in the Canadian evolution of felt hats followed the Mediterranean route, and wool was one of the primary commodities.
According to a myth, the French initially discovered wool felting during the Crusades. For example, there is a clear distinction between chapeau and chaperon hats in French. In the Middle Ages, that was the unique attire of those of status (Crean, 1962). It was a direct ancestor of the hood or cowl and was composed of a fabric headpiece from which a length of material was collected and hung over one shoulder. The more expensive the material was, the more prestige the product gave to its owner. That development of the hat industry in France was crucial for its further growth in the world and Canada in particular.
Sweden was another felting center, where small workshops were built to make hats for peasants. Beavers needed to be indigenous to Scandinavia, and therefore there were no issues with raw materials. There are many similarities between the technology used to make hats in Sweden and eventually in Canada, as well as in the style of these hats. The turning moment occurred when carroting was adopted, and the cheaper source of materials, hare and rabbit furs, was available again. Due to the higher prices of beaver fur at that moment, most manufacturers decided to switch to these materials instead, which was the end of the rapid development of the hat industry.
Reference
Crean, J. F. (1962). Hats and the Fur Trade.The Canadian Journal of Economics and Political Science / Revue Canadienne dEconomique et de Science politique, 28(3), 373-386.
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